We visited four women who characterise the Westend of today – two artists and two restaurant owners, who couldn’t be more different. Yet, they all share a strong connection to Westend, an exciting neighbourhood to live and work in.
When people talk about Munich's Westend, they usually refer to the small Schwanthalerhöhe triangle between the Hackerbrücke and Donnersbergerbrücke bridges and Theresienwiese (Oktoberfest fairground). The district emerged in the mid-19th century with the construction of the railway lines and subsequent industrialisation. Thanks to the good connections, many traders and craftsmen’s businesses settled here. Traces of this history are still evident 125 years later: almost half of the housing stock dates from before 1919 and the backyards accommodate small craft businesses, recognisable by their old chimneys.
A look at historical photographs of the Westend district reveals that women have always played an important role here. And then there is Munich's tallest woman, the Bavaria towering over the neighbourhood.
Of course, much has also changed: Instead of grocer’s shops, you now walk past chic design offices, hip cafés and newly opened restaurants. Colonial goods have been replaced by second-hand fashion, home accessories and art. A look at historical photographs of the Westend district reveals that women have always played an important role here – whether in the factories or the grocery shops. And then there is Munich's tallest woman, the Bavaria (statue), towering over the neighbourhood. She is not only the patron saint of Bavaria, but also the landmark of Westend.
We set out on a search and visited four women who have shaped today's Westend. They do creative work here, establish spaces and bring people together. Among them are two artists and two restaurant owners, who tell us about their work and show us around the Westend neighbourhood!
Anyone who visits illustrator Steffi Bauer's studio in Kazmairstrasse, immediately feels welcome. This warmth comes not just from the inviting space, but above all from Bauer’s sincere and open nature. You will find yourself wanting to sit down and help with the drawing – and, in fact, you can: Illustration workshops are held here once a month, where you can draw blindfolded, use your non-dominant hand, experiment and discover your own drawing style. Bauer explains: “I have absolutely no drawing skills – I lack the patience! I find illustration much more exciting, because it’s about finding and highlighting the imperfect or unusual.”
Before becoming a self-employed illustrator and textile designer, Steffi Bauer worked for the Munich fashion label A Kind Of Guise: “There, I had the chance to design my first shirts and follow the entire process from fabric selection to sales. This experience still benefits me in my work today, also with my small online shop, where I sell my pictures and postcards, as well as scarves and fabric bags.” Bauer’s customers include local brands that value sustainability, such as Naturkosmetik München and Mikrofarm Gräfelfing, as well as international brands, like HAY, Reform, or Fritz Hansen.
“Westend is incredibly relaxing and much greener than you might think. We have the Bavariapark and Westpark just around the corner.”
“There's a lot to do at the moment – so I'm really glad that our apartment is only a few metres away from the shop office,” she says. Steffi Bauer has lived in Westend with her family for years and can't imagine living in any other neighbourhood at the moment: “Westend is incredibly relaxing and much greener than you might think. We have the Bavariapark and Westpark just around the corner. I only really discovered Westpark after we moved here and now, I love it.”
Small cafés and new shops keep popping up all the time, more and more creative people move into the neighbourhood and set up their businesses. This might be partly because it’s easier to find affordable spaces here. Steffi recommends: “The Mira Café & Studio is a brand-new spot around the corner from “lieber Norbert”, a stylist who has opened his own café now. You will also find me at Stray Coffee Roasters, the Bavarian Wirtshaus Eder, Café Colombo, or at Phaedra’s shop heißeliebe. My foodie-tip for Westend is Das Kulinariat, where you can enjoy unbelievably great meals.“
Steffi Bauer Illustration, Kazmairstraße 46
A few streets further, you can savour exquisite French cuisine at bistro Coup de Coeur, run by Munich chef Mona John. During the pandemic, John launched the project “Cooking for Neighbours”, offering one weekly changing dish that can be pre-ordered and picked up. While John was searching for a new production kitchen last year, she stumbled across the small restaurant in Westendstrasse by chance and immediately decided to open her own bistro. Initially open only for lunch, Coup de Coeur now welcomes guests for dinner four times a week.
Due to its growing reputation, reservations are essential well in advance, as the word has spread far beyond the neighbourhood. Many French diners are among the clientèle – a big compliment for John, who honed her skills in Paris and Brittany: “After finishing my Abitur school-leaving certificate, I was determined to do a cookery apprenticeship in France. The great fish there is my favourite thing to prepare. I source my fish from a French supplier who brings fresh catches from the fish market in France.” This week’s menu features sea bream with chanterelles and grenaille potatoes in an egg yolk, bacon and vanilla sauce.
“I barely knew Westend before I opened the bistro, but it’s such a charming neighbourhood – so down-to-earth.“
The chef explains: “We offer three dishes on the menu every day – one with fish, one with meat and a vegetarian option – plus two different desserts. We add at least one new dish every week, so there’s always something fresh and we stay creative.” Fortunately, Mona John has plenty of support from her team at the moment, as she only became a mum a few months ago. During our interview, while she cooks in the open-plan kitchen, her baby daughter sleeps peacefully in a sling on her chest.
John grew up in East Munich and now lives in the Neuhausen district, but would not mind moving to Westend straight away. “I barely knew Westend before I opened the bistro, but it’s such a charming neighbourhood – so down-to-earth. I would love to eat at Das Kulinariat every day and I usually spend short breaks at Fika Ladencafé or Bavariapark“, she mentions as she serves us a fantastic dessert – dark chocolate ganache with black garlic, blackcurrant and cocoa shells.
Coup de Coeur, Westendstraße 29
Some people spend years searching for their passion, while others discover it right away. One of them is Maria Cepissakova, a ceramics artist, who runs her own studio in Gollierstrasse in Westend. After earning her vocational Abitur certificate, the Slovakian-born artist moved to Munich and began studying at the Akademie der Bildenden Künste (Academy of Fine Arts) at just 19, being the youngest student at the time: “I trained as a ceramist before studying – it was important to me to first understand the craft so that I could then transform it into art.”
Cepissakova's shop studio is divided into two sections: In one, you can admire her applied art, including intricately hand-crafted mugs, bowls and vases made on the wheel. This area also hosts regular workshops. In the other part, visitors can explore her free art, such as objects and sculptures, including a large wall piece on the theme of water, which was last exhibited at Galerie Handwerk (gallery). “My art is my home. I don’t care where I do my creations – I am at home wherever there’s a ceramic kiln.” The artist is currently working on a large mosaic for a client in Majorca, which requires frequent trips to the Spanish Balearic Island.
“Westend is my neighbourhood with its unique vibe – very open, friendly, almost family-like. That's probably also because everything is so close together.”
Maria Cepissakova lives just five minutes from her studio, right next to Westpark. She values the sense of community in Westend: The Stray Coffee across the street serves coffee in her cups and in turn, Maria gets her daily coffee there. Her workshops often feature Vietnamese food from the neighbouring Ca Go restaurant, while in summer, Maria’s vases adorn their tables. When her ceramic colleague Lisa Muck from Bergmannstrasse runs out of material, she calls Maria – and vice versa. There are countless similar stories!
Maria Cepissakova recommends three must-visit spots in Westend: “Check out the cool hoodies and shirts at the guys from Goodbois. Restaurant Abant serves delicious Italian and Turkish cuisine – try the wood-fired pizza or vegetarian dishes from Turkey.” The Parke6 Store offers high-quality Scandinavian fashion labels – this is where the artist browses when she needs an outfit for a special event. “Westend is my neighbourhood with its unique vibe – very open, friendly, almost family-like. That's probably also because everything is so close together.”
Atelier Maria Cepissakova, Gollierstraße 33
The cosy Schwanthaler, just a few streets away, also has a family atmosphere. Katharina Janas had clear ideas about her first own restaurant when she opened it in 2018. Before that, she spent over a year searching for the perfect location. Originally, she wanted to open in Neuhausen, where she lives and used to run her own pub. But then, she found the premises in Schwanthalerstrasse: “‘There used to be a pub here with a tiled floor, plastic sofa and slot machines. I had a vision for the place, renovated it and today it is exactly how I imagined it.”
Katharina Janas completed her apprenticeship at Hotel Bayerischer Hof. Her training supervisor did not want his protégés to end up as ‘beer garden waitresses’, but Janas considered this her best option and worked at the world-famous Hofbräuhaus (beer hall), as well as the Tegernseer im Tal. Afterwards, she first went to Rome to study philosophy to escape the catering industry and try something completely different. Her studies still benefit her today, as she engages in conversations with many guests when serving: “You actually spend the whole day here doing philosophy – like Socrates, who went to the market square and talked to people.”
“Westend is like a village. When my friend Monika from Fayn's Backeck drops by and sees I'm busy, she will not hesitate to help out behind the counter.”
The Schwanthaler is a place where people like to linger longer and philosophise: a modern pub with forest green wood panelling, traditional farmhouse chairs and dried hop garlands. In the centre hangs a painting of Westend, featuring the Bavaria and the Theresienwiese – painted by Janas herself. Outside, there is a cosy pub garden that is very popular in summer. There is always something happening on Schwanthalerstrasse, which Janas affectionately calls “Munich’s craziest street”.
The best-sellers in her pub are Münchner Schnitzel and Böflamott, an old Bavarian dish that has become rare on restaurant menus these days. Janas now has many regulars, one of whom always says that he feels like he is at his mum's when he is in the village restaurant – a true compliment to the owner. Her guests are pleasant and friendly, many come from the neighbourhood: “Westend is like a village. When my friend Monika from Fayn's Backeck drops by and sees I'm busy, she will not hesitate to help out behind the counter.”
Schwanthaler Wirtshaus, Schwanthalerstraße 135
